Peptides in cosmetics — a complete guide

What are peptides?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids linked by peptide bonds — put simply, they're "fragments" of larger proteins such as collagen or elastin. In the body they perform signalling and structural functions: they tell cells what processes to trigger, or they serve directly as tissue building blocks.

In cosmetology, peptides are used mainly for their ability to:

• send skin cells a "signal" to produce collagen and elastin,
• support the rebuilding of the skin barrier,
• limit excessive facial muscle tension (in the case of selected neurocosmetic peptides),
• transport copper ions that support regenerative processes (copper peptides).

It's worth distinguishing peptides right away from related but different ingredients: amino acids are the single "building blocks" that make up peptides and proteins, collagen and hydrolysed collagen are much longer chains (proteins or their fragments), and peptides sit somewhere in between — short enough to penetrate into the epidermis, yet complex enough to carry a specific biological signal.

How do peptides work in cosmetics?

The mechanism of action depends on the type of peptide, but most work at the level of cellular signalling rather than — as with, say, hyaluronic acid — at the level of hydration or plumping. In simplified terms:

1. A peptide applied to the skin penetrates the epidermis, and partly the upper layers of the dermis.
2. It binds to receptors on the surface of fibroblasts (the cells responsible for, among other things, collagen production).
3. It "informs" the cell that micro-damage has occurred — which naturally triggers repair processes, including collagen and elastin synthesis.

This is why peptides are sometimes called "biomimetics" — they imitate the natural signals the body sends to itself in response to skin damage, without actually damaging the tissue.

It's worth stressing: the effectiveness of a given peptide depends on its structure, concentration, form of application (spray, serum, cream), and stability within the specific cosmetic formula. That's why, when evaluating a product, looking at the full INCI list and stated concentrations matters more than the marketing name of the ingredient.

Types of peptides

Cosmetics use several main peptide categories, differing in structure and mechanism of action.

Peptides and collagen

Peptides and collagen are closely related, but they're not the same thing. Collagen is a long-chain structural protein that builds skin, tendons and cartilage. Collagen peptides form through hydrolysis (breakdown) of collagen into shorter fragments — which is why they penetrate the epidermal barrier more easily and can act as a biological signal rather than merely as a building material.

In practice, this means a cosmetic containing "collagen peptides" doesn't deliver ready-made collagen to the skin in the form it exists in tissue — it delivers a signal intended to prompt the skin's own fibroblasts to increase collagen production.

Peptides and elastin

Similarly to collagen, some peptides (elastin peptides / peptides supporting elastogenesis) are meant to support the production of elastin — the protein responsible for skin's elasticity and resilience. Elastin regenerates much more slowly than collagen, which is why ingredients supporting its synthesis are especially important in the care of mature skin losing firmness.

Peptides vs retinol

Peptides and retinol are two different anti-ageing mechanisms that can be seen as complementary rather than competing:

There's no single answer to "which is better" — the choice depends on skin condition, tolerance, and skincare goals. A well-designed routine often combines both types of ingredients.

Peptides vs hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid works primarily at the level of hydration — it binds water in the epidermis, giving a plumping and nourishing effect. Peptides work at the level of biological signalling, supporting long-term rebuilding of skin structure. These are also complementary ingredients — many formulas (including Larens peptide products) combine peptides with hyaluronic acid in one formula, to achieve both a hydrating and a regenerating effect.

Peptide serum — how to choose?

Serum is the most common form of peptide application, since it allows a high concentration of the active ingredient in a relatively light formula. Within this category, it's worth distinguishing:

• multi-peptide serum — combining several types of peptides with different mechanisms of action,
• copper peptide serum — targeted at supporting regeneration involving copper ions,
• collagen peptide serum — focused on supporting collagen synthesis,
• bioactive marine peptide serum — based on fish collagen hydrolysates, like Biopeptide Serum Spray.

When choosing a peptide serum, it's worth checking: the full INCI (not just the marketing name), the concentration and position of the peptide on the ingredient list, the form of application, and the product's pH (too-high pH can reduce the stability of some peptides).

How to read the INCI of a peptide cosmetic?

A product's marketing name ("peptide serum", "multi-peptide complex") tells you little about its actual peptide content. To assess the composition, it's worth checking a few things on the INCI list:

1. The ingredient's position on the list. INCI is listed in descending order of concentration (except for ingredients below 1%, which can appear in any order). A peptide listed near the start is usually present at a higher concentration than one listed near the end.
2. Full INCI name, not the trade name. "Matrixyl" is the trade name for Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (sometimes combined with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1); "Argireline" is the trade name for Acetyl Hexapeptide-8. Manufacturers don't always list the trade name alongside the INCI, so it's worth knowing both.
3. The number of different peptides in the formula. "Multi-peptide" products can contain anywhere from a few to over a dozen different peptides — the number alone doesn't directly translate to effectiveness; concentration and suitability for a specific skincare goal matter too.
4. The presence of carriers and penetration enhancers. Some formulas combine peptides with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, or ceramides, which can affect tolerance and how the whole formula works.
5. INCI currency. Manufacturers sometimes change formulas — it's worth verifying composition based on the current packaging or the official manufacturer's website, not solely on older descriptions found online.

Peptides in mature skin care

Mature skin loses firmness and density mainly due to slowing natural collagen and elastin synthesis and the accumulation of damage related to UV exposure and chronological ageing processes. Because peptides work at the level of cellular signalling that stimulates fibroblasts, they're often a recommended ingredient for skincare targeting this group of needs.

In practice, this means peptides tend to appear in several forms at once in a mature-skin routine:

• peptide serum applied under moisturiser, as a carrier for a high concentration of the active ingredient,
• peptide cream applied at night, supporting regeneration during the skin's natural renewal cycle,
• eye products (gels, serums) — the eye area has thinner skin and shows earlier signs of firmness loss, so separate peptide products are often used here, e.g. based on neuropeptides.

Effects of using peptides in mature skin care are usually described in terms of improved firmness, elasticity, and overall skin condition — they should not, however, be attributed medical effects or compared to invasive or injectable treatments.

Biopeptide Complex — Larens' technology

In the Larens range, bioactive peptides appear under the name Biopeptide Complex — a proprietary technology based on bioactive marine peptides obtained from fish collagen hydrolysates (according to the official Nutrivi catalogue: silver carp, grass carp, Atlantic salmon). The technology is protected by patents PL206813 and US7285638, and its inventor is Prof. Andrzej Frydrychowski. In manufacturer studies using the SIRCOL method (Medical University of Wrocław, 2012), a 671% increase in collagen synthesis was recorded; the technology also received a silver medal at the Brussels Eureka invention fair in 2006.

The flagship product using this technology is Biopeptide Serum Spray (pH 3.0–4.0) — a full description of the technology, its mechanism of action, and a comparison with other peptide types (Matrixyl, Argireline, Copper Tripeptide-1) can be found in a dedicated guide: Biopeptide Complex — what it is and how it works →

The above data comes from manufacturer materials (official Nutrivi catalogue, patent documentation) and is presented as manufacturer information, not independent clinical verification.

FAQ

Sources

• Official Nutrivi product catalogue (WellU manufacturer materials).
• Patent documentation: PL206813, US7285638.
• SIRCOL method study results, Medical University of Wrocław, 2012 (manufacturer data).
• Award information: Brussels Eureka 2006.

Content prepared: August 2026. Content requires periodic review in line with INCI and manufacturer material updates.